All passionate drivers tend to constantly upgrade their four-wheelers in order to improve their performance. One way to achieve this is by installing backup head studs. Higher quality engines that are characterized by good technical performance have cylinders that are under high internal pressure. In order to improve their functioning, the installation of head studs is applied. This trend is the most popular when it comes to racing engines, and the goal is to enable cars to face the most demanding situations.
While the installation process may seem confusing, it doesn’t have to be that way. If you have your own garage with all the necessary tools and car mechanic equipment, we are sure that you don’t have to spend money on a car mechanic and that you can install it yourself. With a little skill and the following few tips, you will surely succeed.
Source: racepagesdigital.com
1.The first tip that you should definitely apply is to remove all the accumulated dirt that has accumulated in the holes where the head studs should be placed later. When you’re cycling a tap or a thread chaser, you’ll first give it a few turns in, and then return it for a few turns. With these movements that you can repeat several times, you ensure the cleanliness of the hole, which is very important to you in this case. The next step is to blow out the hole with the help of compressed air.
You do not need any special chemical cleaner. You can easily use what you mainly use to clean the brakes. The aim of this procedure is, among other things, to ensure that at the end of the installation, all studs will be at the same depth. If you fail to achieve this, you have not done it correctly. Therefore, all traces of dirt and oil residues must be removed properly.
At this point, it would be good to look at the possibility of hitting the water jacket due to improper handling. When you’re running the tap or a thread chaser, don’t just keep cranking on it when you get to the bottom. This error can result in the water jacket breaking. This is not just a small mistake, but you can destroy your block and create a big problem.
You need to repeat this procedure on all the holes. Finally, add a little compressed air to each to dry faster and then you can move on to the next phase.
2. Preparations for installation in the bearings include lubrication. Put a little in the block and don’t overdo it. Run it across the threads there. Some engines have water jackets inside the stud holes. In such cases, the use of a thread sealer is recommended. As the name suggests, the role of this product is to seal the thread and water to avoid leakage.
Remember to tighten the studs well, by hand. This is also one of the key steps. Eliminating tools, in this case, is very important because you have no control over the castings. In order to prevent the core from moving into a lot of cast iron, thin walls falling and breaking the bottom, to the water.
At first, you can help yourself with a key. But keep in mind that The torque application on a stud is a little bit different than a bolt. Unlike a bolt when the threads move at the base of the block, in the case of cold there is no pulling of the bottom.
We mustn’t forget to mention that it is crucial to pay attention to the quality of head studs you buy. They shouldn’t let you down even in the most difficult conditions, so DieselTechMag could have an interesting offer.
Source: enginelabs.com
3. Once you have successfully placed the studs in the holes, the next step is to check that it is placed correctly. Make sure the studs protrude above the block. If not, you can be sure that you have done a good job, but if it sticks out, it will be a sign that you have to take a step back and set it up properly. Simply pull it out, check all the other parameters as mentioned above, and try again.
The piston hole, turning the motor through, brings the piston to the bottom-most part of its travel, cleaning each cylinder out. If you want to lube your cylinders, that’s fine too. Compressed air through all of your coolant and oil passages. Make sure everything is clean and free. Before proceeding, make sure that the cups and lifts are ready for use.
4. The process continues with the installation of Gaskets. But before that, it is necessary to provide a completely dry surface. So check once again for traces of oil or dirt somewhere on the engine. Once you have determined this, slide the gaskets over our studs. Now insert the head alignment dowels into the block and that’s it. Slowly step back and take a short break, not touching anything.
Source: pspdiesel.com
5. Head prep. Slowly lower the gaskets to the dowel. Don’t worry about whether the head preparation is done well because it will become clear to you if it isn’t. Simply, if it is not well placed on the locating dowels when the head is nailed, the dowels will crush. This can ruin the cylinder head and we, therefore, advise you to be careful when this step is involved.
6. Now you need to start putting out nuts. Let’s take a look at the washers for a moment. Almost all platforms have the washers that come with the stud kits. To begin, lubricate the top of the washer. But be sure to avoid lubricating the underside so as not to get a double bearing when torque. As you are torquing, you never get into your torque value early enough. It is time to torque the head down.
Apply the torque sequence to all studs. Then, torque your upper row boltson down. Make sure your torque wrench is at the correct value. Pay attention to the first order of torque because it is also the most important. To confirm once again that the next steps will proceed properly, check again that everything is set up correctly. Grab the tool and make circular motions from the center outward until you hear a click-like sound.
And that’s it. As you can see, with a little skill and the tools needed, installing head studs doesn’t have to be complicated at all. Follow these steps and we are sure that you will succeed.